Wednesday 23 May 2007

Getting to Know You

The lovely people at Ingrid Flute agency had told us it would be regatta week at Whitby; all we knew was that it would mean competitions and races involving boats - we were pleasantly surprised to learn that it was much more than that- stalls, sideshows, stunts, aerobatics, music, a funfair, thronging crowds of people from everywhere, and a finale of an amazing firework display all in this tiny and very remote corner of England.
My son continued to indulge his obsession with crabbing on the little jetty that seems made for the purpose and I went for walks to explore the backstreets. At the tourist office, I bought Whitby Town Trail booklets for the east and west side and dedicated a day to each while my husband and son crabbed and went sea fishing.
Whitby is so interesting to walk around- you notice something different every time you walk down a street- you discover different streets, too.
I walked round the West side first, that was where we were staying in our comfortable and interesting cottage; I particularly like Skinner Street and Silver Street - Silver Street has the best, and definitely the cheapest takeaway fish and chips, although I'm prepared to be proved wrong in this!
The "new" part of the West side, developed by railway king Hudson is fabulous - it's so spacious, particularly when you are up at Skinner Street and beyond-Skinner Street has amazing shopfronts, many of the shops selling unusual things, but some just plain useful...what I also like about Skinner Street is you walk along it past the amazing buidings and then you can see the sea ahead of you; bliss! I love Cliff Street too, and it's fascinating street structure- my favourite building is probable the one on the corner of Paddock Steps with the fossils in the walls...then again, there a remany buildings to choose from - I like to imagine living in Whitby - what would be my favourite street- which house? an impossible decision to make...would have to have views of the sea or the harbour...how would I manage, how would we support ourselves. All unknown and a big step to make...
Explored the East side on a different day...it was really hectic ...I bought a local paper and went and had a coffee in I think it was the Shepherd's Purse, or near to it, just to catch my breath after the relative quiet of the West side, the East side was almost too much.
Walked along Church Street through the crowds towards the abbey...loads of holiday makers with icecreams, and then as I got nearer to the abbey steps, there was calm again- very strange- there is an incredible stillness, particularly as you go past the steps and further up Henrietta Street and the smokehouse...beautiful views across Whitby from high up on the East Cliff and time to clear my head. Walked back down into town and to the other end of Church street - also interesting for the old pubs and the seaman's hospital.
The market place is great, particularly on a market day...there are great shops on the East side, too, I think of the fishmongers, the bakery and the fudge and chocolate shops - all extremely crowded though...
We ate at at various restaurants, but the ones we have returned to are the tapas place in Grape Lane, -will post the name when I remember it!- the Khyber Cafe for honest simple food and unbeatable views, and the Magpie, always best to visit the Magpie on spec; if you go past when there's no queue and you're hungry...I don't think it's worth queueing for long, there's too much else to do, and lots of other restaurants, but really, we have gone to Khyber cafe a lot as your imagination goes wild with the view.

1 comment:

helen said...
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